Obsessing over hand-made tortillas

The search for the best hand made tortillas and the learning of how to make them has essentially been the main reason for this trip to Central America.

In Guatemala the slapping of masa is a serious activity happening constantly and for me it is the countries main idiosyncrasy, just pipping the post before endemic government corruption.

Crossing the border into Mexico it became apparent that I was leaving that part of the cooking culture behind. Right at the border on the Guatemalan side was a tortillera selling tortillas made from a big tortilla-making monster machine. When I was here in the Chiapas 15 years ago, the installation of a tortilleria in a pueblo was a symbol of progress, much akin to the installation of white goods in for the West in the 50’s; it freed women up to do other things.

There is no way I would ever advocate for us to go back to basics and start washing our clothes by hand again, however the making of tortillas by hand is for me something so visceral and authentic. I would encourage anyone to get their hands into it just to see how simple it is and how much more satisfying it is than putting some toast on.

So my fascination for hand made tortillas goes a little too far at times. A gruelling 5 hour trek up a volcano is one thing, coming back to your Guatemalan hotel only to be served packet tortillas is another. The over-enthusiastic or ‘bossy’ nature in me came to life as I waltzed into the kitchen where these were produced and demanded to know if this was going to be the same quality of tortilla for our evening meal. For Dios sake hombres I’m in Guatemala and any self respecting Guatemalan can make hand made tortillas. It is like they are born with the instructions tattooed on their hands.

I’ve been trying to make them at home for a few months now and am so happy to have had a lesson in Antigua from Doña Soñia. I realised I was making my dough mix like a dough rather than a paste. And there is really no need to knead it either. It doesn’t need to rise. Anyone who comments on this blog will get an invitation to my house to eat some when I get back home in June.

Hasta Luego Caballeros!