Book Review: The Empress of Ice Cream by Anthony Capella

With a master who locks him in an ice house and refuses to let him marry the girl of his dreams, it’s no wonder Carlo Demirco agrees to escape to Paris and make his fortune creating ices for King Louis XIV. Once there, he gets caught up in the politics of the day and falls in love with Louise de Keroualle, the woman destined to become Charles II’s mistress.

A quick look at the book led me to believe I was going to either read about 17th century politics or about a historical romance, with ice cream casually mentioned from time to time. So I was delighted (and a little surprised) when the book started with Carlo’s secret ice-cream experimentations during his servitude to a Persian ice maker. Instead of simply a narrative about the politics and attitudes of the time, the reader is given a glimpse of the evolution of ice cream, from syrups poured over crushed ice to the creamy delicacy we know today.

Capella switches between the two main characters, starting with Carlo who recounts his work and life within the French court. The descriptions of his creations are so vivid, from the strawberry and white pepper concoction that causes him to meet Louise to the smooth, creamy pear ice cream that costs him his place in the French court. They all make you want to head into the kitchen to try them for yourself! And if these don’t tempt you, the delicious descriptions from the ‘Book of Ices’ at the start of each of Carlo’s chapters will.

Louise begins to tell her side of the tale as the story progresses as she and Carlo are sent to England to charm King Charles with love and ice. Unlike Carlo, she describes what is happening in the present tense, creating a more immediate diary entry feel. However, this does mean that the politics rather than the history of ice cream, begin to take centre stage, a cause for slight disappointment to readers drooling over Carlo’s creations. Even Carlo, who is trying to perfect his recipes and harvest perfect ice, is pulled into the machinations of the two courts and by helping Louise achieve her ambitions he sometimes loses sights of his own desires.

Overall it’s a good read that left me with a desire to buy an ice cream maker and test his recipes for pomegranate sorbet, pineapple sherbet and the delicious winter ice cream spiced with nutmeg for myself. And how many novels can do that?

By Laura Boness

Image: Laura Boness